A Philippine travelogue

A chapel window in the Philippines with the slogan of the 2009 General Chapter

In March, Fr. Tom Cassidy visited the Philippines to take part in the inauguration of the Philippine Region. What follows is his journal from his travels.


Thursday March 8, 2012

Fr. Tom Cassidy, provincial superior of the U.S. Province

The long voyage to Manila began shortly after the Sacred Heart School of Theology Board of Directors Meeting on Wednesday afternoon of March 7, 2012. Since I was leaving early the next day out of  Chicago I drove down and booked a room at a nearby Holiday Inn Express. They have a Stay & Fly package that allows me to leave my car in their parking lot. I also plan to stay overnight on my return from the Philippines since I don’t arrive at O’Hare until 20:00 on March 17, 2012.

After a good night’s sleep  my iPhone alarm chimed at 05:00 to get me on my way. Actually I was already awake as is often the case when I have a long flight ahead of me, I think it’s from my Roman days. Most of my flights out of Rome left around 07:30 which meant I had to be at the airport around 05:30. Thankfully I never missed a flight from a missed alarm!

My travel plans called for three flights to finally get me to Manila: United 382 @ 08:49 to Washington Dulles arriving @ 11:31; United 803 @ 12:20 to Narita (Japan) arriving the next day @ 16:30; Nippon Airways 949 @ 17:30 arriving Manila @ 21:30.

I didn’t get off to an auspicious start! United allows you to listen in to the pilots talk to air traffic control on channel 9 (if the captain so chooses, most do). We departed the gate but before beginning our taxi the captain reported a problem with the fuel pump. It took about a half hour of talking to maintenance staff to reset the controls so we could take off. That half hour cut into an already short transfer time (49 minutes). Since we were flying east we did make up a little of the time, but it cut down my time to about half an hour. That was not a problem for me as the gates were close; however I was a bit concerned about my luggage. Oh well, nothing I could do except to wait and see if it showed up in Manila.

United 803 flies a Boeing 777 on this route to Japan. It was a full flight, but I had the window seat right behind the bulkhead in 7A. The route took us west from DC up through Canada then over Alaska, Siberia and down across the sea to the Japanese Islands. It’s about a 14 hour flight. I managed three decent films and two meals along the way. My film selections were: The Decedents; Adventures of Tin Tin and Tower Heists.

Since we were flying west and left around noon and would arrive in late afternoon in Japan our entire flight took place in sunlight. The first couple of hours were a bit bouncy, but after that the journey was smooth and pleasant. The three films helped to pass the time. I was especially glad to see The Decedents as George Clooney was nominated for best actor in this year’s Oscars. While he didn’t win I can see why he got a nomination.

We landed at Narita on time and that gave me an hour to catch my next and last flight of the day. It was now Friday March 9, 2012, as I had crossed the International Dateline. This was the third time I’ve flown into and out of Narita. However, it was about 20 years since my last flight and the airport is much improved. I had little trouble locating my gate and getting through the airport screening required now from one flight to another (or so it seems for international flights).

NH949 left on time for Manila. It’s about a five hour flight with an hour time change as Manila is south and west of Japan; we lost an hour headed in that direction. This flight was on a Boeing 767-300 and I was in back of the bus in row 38. One interesting feature offered by Nippon Airways is a TV camera showing the pilots view as we taxied and took off. American Airlines use to have that until one of their DC 10s crashed on takeoff from O’Hare.

This flight also arrived on time for which I was very grateful as it had been a very long day, or should I say two days given the fact it was now March 9th! Getting through passport control and customs was easy and quick. By the time I was through all our luggage was also on the luggage belt and I spotted mine right away and for that too I was very thankful as I had visions of having it lost somewhere between DC and Manila.

I was told to expect Fr. Vincent Herimanto or one of the scholastics to meet me where the international passengers file out from customs. I looked around but did not spot anyone who seemed to be looking for me or who had a sign with my name on it. I began walking up and down the area and one of the airport staff asked if I was waiting for someone. I told him yes. We waited a couple of minutes and he graciously called our SCJ house, but, alas, no answer. He said we could try again in a few minutes.

A minute or two after the call I spotted a young SCJ with a sign reading Thomas Cassidy. Br. Flu Van, one of the Vietnamese SCJs had been waiting for me. He had spotted me coming out of customs but was not sure I was the right (“Big White Guy from America” I thought) one he was suppose to be meeting. When he saw me with the airport staff he decided to check me out. I saw the sign and we made our connection. Another scholastic (Patrick, a Filipino SCJ) was with the car and was our driver.

Manila is famous for its horrible traffic situation. While the roads were crowded it was not too bad given the hour, and the fact that it was Friday night. Our ride home took about one hour. Finally at about 23:00 I laid my head on the pillow after a warm shower and fell fast asleep. Morning Prayer and Mass is scheduled for 06:00, but I had warned Patrick and Puc that I probably would sleep in as I had no intention of setting my alarm.

March 10, 2012 — Saturday Morning

Since we arrived late at night I did not get a good look at our house. This morning after breakfast I took an hour-long walk around the area. Our scholasticate is located in a gated area of Manila. It’s located at #14 Josefa Llanes Esconda Street, Quezon City.  The house was once the Claretians’ novitiate  and when they decided to move it elsewhere we purchased the property from them. Manila is often called the Rome of the East and is the center for Catholic theological education in Asia. At present our students go to  two different theological schools. We have SCJs from Vietnam as well as Filipinos studying here. There are three Indian SCJs as well. I know at least one is ordained and is studying pastoral theology, but I’m not sure about the status of the other two.  There are also two young SCJs from Brazil who are studying theology here and will stay to work here upon ordination. Many SCJs in the States know them as they did a year of ESL in preparation to the Philipines. English is the language of education in the Philippines.

March 10, 2012 — Late Afternoon

After a brief rest following the noon meal Fr. Vincent took me to visit our parish about an hour’s drive from here. It is the new parish of St. Roque. We were given responsibility for it last June.  It is currently staffed by one priest and a deacon. the pastor is John Karl Cabaluna assisted by deacon Lourdiso Panay.  There are about 12,000 families in the parish or about 50,000 people. The church is a very simple structure as it will take time to find and raise funds to make it more than an open air cathedral.

The pastoral team is currently renting a house; a rectory (or “convent” as it is called around here) will likewise have to wait. I thought the design of the tabernacle was an ingenious way to protect the Blessed Sacrament in an open church. As the photo shows it is the first caged tabernacle I have ever come across.

I did not get a chance to meet the deacon as he was not at the parish during our visit. One of the local customs I found interesting is when someone comes up to a priest and takes your hand and touches his/her forehead. There was lots of that going on while we were there.

There were also a lot of activities taking place. The choir was rehearsing for Sunday Mass. A couple of youth were getting equipment ready to show  a film in the evening after dark. They’ll charge a few peso and use this as a means of raising money for the youth group. Along one side of the property line a group of men and boys were donating their labor to build a wall to give a little more protection to the church grounds.

Vincent and I stayed about an hour and then headed back to be in time for 18:30 adoration and evening prayer followed by a light supper. Now I’m getting ready to call it a night as it will be an early start to the airport to catch my flight to Pagadian so that I can have a chance to visit the novitiate. It will be new to me as the novitiate was built long after my last visit.

March 11, 202 — Sunday Morning

I met Vincent at 04:55 and the two of us went to the airport where he dropped me off around 05:45. As he promised the traffic at that hour on a Sunday morning was not too bad; more trucks than cars as they have until 06:00 to enter the city.

This was the same terminal that my flight from Tokyo used (most international flights use terminal 3) and as this terminal (1) handles the domestic flights. I was booked on Cebu Pacific for a 07:10 flight to Pagadian. When I last made this trip it was by a prop driven plane; this time it was an A320 Airbus. The flight took about an hour and twenty minutes. Vincent told me my pickup would be about twenty minutes late as he had Mass at 07:30. Much to my surprise Kusmaryardi was there to greet me!

He wasn’t alone either! We had a another Indonesian SCJ as our driver, and much to my surprise, two Filipino soldiers complete with weapons at the ready. The soldiers greeted me politely and got in the back of our minivan for the ride to Dumalinao where the novitiate is located.

The local Moslem rebels (the MILF) have waged a long battle for separation and independence from Manila and have threatened to kidnap Western priests. The military has taken this threat seriously and thus we have guards who are also at the novitiate and will accompany us tomorrow when we visit Kumalarang.

In so many ways it is a sad situation. The SCJs chose to come here in 1987 in part to try and build a Moslem – Christian dialogue and now all we have to show for it is our presence in Kumalarang. Our other original foundations had to be abandoned after the kidnaping of Fr. Bepe, an Italian SCJ. Fortunately he was released after several months of captivity. Still it left a mark on him and he was forced to abandon his work here. After some time in India he finally returned to his Italian homeland.

We arrived safely at the novitiate around 09:00. It is a very pretty site as the pictures will show. The chapel is certainly one that helps you to commune with nature. I had a chance to say Mass in it this morning following breakfast. We left our Manila house so early neither food for the soul or food for the body was possible.

There are at present three Filipino novices and seven from India. Actually one of the Filipinos is a former member of the community who asked to return and is here for the last two months of the novitiate. Profession for the Filipinos is in May. I am not sure when it will take place in India.

The US Province was a major contributor to the construction of the novitiate. Dick MacDonald came here when it was dedicated. It is a lovely location.

Around 17:00 we drove to our parish of St. Isidore as it is only about five minutes from here. We took the parish shortly after Fr. Bepe was kidnapped when we were forced to leave Dimitaling and Margosatubic, two of our original foundations. This is a safer area though not without some risk as witnessed by the soldiers who escorted us to the parish.

I didn’t take any pictures at St. Isidore as it was getting dark. I think we may be going there again in the morning on  our way to visiting Kumalarang.

Kumalarang is the last of our original places. I look forward to seeing what it looks like though my memory of the place is a bit faded by time. It’s been more then twenty years since I was last there.

As for St. Isidore’s it is currently staffed by an Indonesian, Lukas Siswo Sasmito, who I first met many years ago when he was a young priest at a newly established parish in Jakarta. I reminded him he helped me to understand the meaning of humility in the Indonesian culture.

There is also a Polish priest assigned to the parish (Szymon Bendowsky), but because of the current situation he was sent to Cagayan de Oro until things calm down around here.

Finally there is a young Filipino priest, Jigger Cabingas Ganados, who could easily fit into working in South Dakota — he has some Native American features accentuated by his long hair.

March 12, 2012 — Afternoon

We headed to Kumalarang, about  15 miles from the novitiate, planning to arrive in time for lunch. Kumalarang is the last of the original three missions started by the SCJs when they came to the Philippines in 1989. The activities of the FMLI made the other places unsafe and so we withdrew and began work elsewhere.

Since we are close to the sea, fish and other seafood dishes are the favorites of the locals. My favorite village of Bualan is near here and they sent over crabs for our lunch as they are one of their specialities.

I took this picture on my first visit  of two fishermen cleaning up after a morning of fishing. While it is hard to see, the man is wearing a a blue t-shirt that reads Wisconsin. Ever since then I have had a fondness for this village that has suffered from time to time from both the FMLI and Mother Nature. My latest contribution was a gift from the US Province to replace their chapel roof.

Our parish of Kumalarang is staffed by Fr. Rechie Costudio Gier, one of the first of our Filipino vocations. One of the Polish SCJs is also stationed here but at the moment is in Cagayan de Oro (Jan Krzysciak) because of the troubles. Helping this year as well is one of the scholastics doing his pastoral year, his name is Patro Gier.

After lunch the parish leader from Bualan came to greet me. His name is Capisteano. He had a picture for me of the new chapel roof, but it’s not back from the developer. I hope to get it before I leave, if not they’ll mail it to me.

We returned to the novitiate and learned that the SCJs would go out to Pagadian for dinner. The big city is only about 20 minutes from the novitiate. A good meal was a nice way to end a pleasant and busy day.

March 13, 2012 – traveling day

Today the entire novitiate staff and novices would travel to Cagayan de Oro to get ready for tomorrow’s celebrations. The novices will take a bus and we would travel in two cars (five to a car). It’s about a six hour drive.

The roads are good, though there are a few stretches where road construction slows traffic down to a crawl.

Our trip was broken up by a lunch break prepared by a doctor’s family. The doctor has a private hospital and is a benefactor of our community. We had the parish here for about ten years, but have since turned it back to the diocese.

Once again the main fare served was several different kinds of sea food dishes. Juan Domingo, who was one of the founding SCJs and worked in the Philippines for a number of years came from Rome for the celebration. He is allergic to shell fish and so at every stop we have also had fried chicken on the menu.

We arrived in Cagayan de Oro a little after 14:00 and made a brief stop at a home for abused girls that the SCJs established shortly after they came to Cagayan.

This area was ravaged by floods shortly before Christmas. We were told the water was more than seven feet high on the first floor and they had to abandon the house for about three weeks before they could return.

I must say the house looks good, and you would never know it had suffered such flood damage. Unfortunately this area has suffered more than one major flood. A combination of being at the sea’s edge and a narrow river  channel are the sources of their difficulties.

At present there are about 26 girls living here and attending nearby schools. We met the youngest who is eleven. Most of the girls were still at school while we paid our brief visit.

We made our grand entrance on the grounds of our SCJ compound that houses both the aspirant and philosophy programs.

I’m staying in the aspirant house. There are some forty plus students of which twelve are from Vietnam and the rest Filipinos.

Not all that long ago we began a mission in Vietnam. Because of the current government restrictions it is not so easy to form candidates  in Vietnam and thus at present their formation program takes place here in the Philippines.

Three young SCJ Vietnamese priests arrived today to be a part of tomorrow’s celebration marking the birth of the Philippine Region.

The festivities actually begin this evening with a churrasco. Unfortunately, this Brazilian style barbecue begins an hour after we ate supper!

March 14, 2012 – Fr. Dehon’s Birthday & Inauguration of SCJ Philippine Region

The celebration would officially begin with Mass at 17:30 so I had most of the day free. In the morning I visited our nearby parish of The Immaculate Conception. We have not had the parish for all that long but it is a good one to have being so close to the formation house.

Janusz Bursawa is the pastor. He has with him an Indian deacon who either is or soon will be a member of the Philippine District and plans to stay long term.

The parish has a new rectory (or “convento” as they call it here). It was built by the last pastor and was completed just before he left. It certainly meets their needs and seems comfortable enough for this climate. Without air-conditioning the next best thing is a cross breeze. For the most part they are able to achieve it given the window placements.

The parish has about 1200 families.  What is most notable at present is the Tent Village taking up much of the free space in front of the church. The village is home to several hundred people displaced by last December’s floods.

The plan was to house them here for about three months and then relocate them to more permanent structures. It’s now past three months with no promised date when a move might be a foot.

While we were walking around a group of young kids came to greet us. Janusz is certainly no stranger to them!

I got a kick out of this young boy in his Superman outfit. I’m sure he got it from one of the boxes filled with cloths people have sent to aid the flood victims. A new shipment of boxes arrived at the parish not too long ago. I saw plenty of evidence of the generosity of the Filipino people. Some of these donations came from places like Saudi Arabia, or perhaps even the US. Many Filipinos leave the country to find work elsewhere and send money home to their families.

I got back to the Formation House in time for the noon meal. Filipino food is good and of course features rice as a daily dish. As was pointed out to me they tend to eat less vegetables than say the Indonesians or Vietnamese. As we are always close to the sea here on Mindanao fish is a dish that frequently appears — certainly a lot more then we would see it back home even on the east or west coasts.

After lunch I met briefly with Frank Pupkowski and Bene Machado to talk about the US Province’s financial support for the region. I personally see what the US Province does as one way for us (USA) to keep our mission spirit alive. What we sometimes forget is that it’s not only money that we provide. For example, the last few years we have sent senior SCJs to work with the incoming candidates to help improve their English language skills. John Klingler will be coming next month to carry on that tradition. I will say, I have been impressed with the command of English the Filipino and Vietnamese candidates and young professed religious have demonstrated.

I would be remiss if I did not also report the gratitude given to Wayne Jenkins for his service in establishing their local archives and in training them in how to keep it moving forward. He too will return shortly to continue this project.

As for the celebration it went off on time. Mass began at 17:30 with Claudio Dalla Zuanna, scj, our vicar general, as the main celebrant. In addition to a homily we had the reading of the proclamation establishing the region of the Philippines and one appointing Frank Pupkowski, scj, as the first regional superior along with his council. Finally, Frank made his profession of faith, something all superiors do upon taking office. After communion Frank gave a short talk in which he thanked people past and present for their contribution to our establishment here on Mindanao leading up to this becoming a region.

In the background of all that was going on was the image and contribution Jerry Sheehy, scj, made to the Philippines. I did not realize today was his birthday. Jerry passed away several days ago and his funeral will take place in Scotland on Friday. Bene (the last district superior) will leave very early tomorrow morning to fly to Scotland to represent the region at his funeral.

After Mass we went right to feasting. Tables were set up inside and out and a catering service had been brought in to handle the crowd of 200 plus hungry people. I  wisely opted to eat outside under the stars as it was a pleasant evening.

The meal would bring things to a close so I opted for an early bed time as 05:00 would roll around sooner then one might think.

March 15, 2012 — Thursday

I feel compelled to begin today’s report speaking about noise! One would think living in a semi-rural setting or truly a rural one like the novitiate would mean that the nights would be quiet. Well let me disabuse you of that thought!

The night is filled with night music, especially barking dogs. Dogs serve as sentries and home protectors and they do a good job. However, it comes at the cost of at least intermittent barking bouts. Here at the formation house we have three dogs. They made last night a fitful one for sleeping. I don’t know what the matter was but it certainly sounded like a war zone out there.

Adding to the night din are the wild creatures — mostly birds as well as a rooster who thinks the dawn comes around 03:00. Claudio Dalla Zuanna and I agree that Rome is an island of nighttime tranquility compared to what we heard last night.

As for my time, the morning was free. As I do like to walk at least an hour a day I have taken to walking up and down a covered walkway in the courtyard as it keeps me out of the sun and heat. While it may seem boring walking up and down for sixty minutes, listening to a book makes the exercise more than bearable, especially if its a good read.

After a brief nap I met Fr. Claudio Dalla Zuanna and the two of us traveled with Fr. Roberto Sutopo to visit the scholars’ house. This program was started several years ago and during the current school year they moved into a new facility. The program provides housing and scholarship money for students (both boys and girls) to attend high school. The students come from rural areas as close as 14 kilometers and as far as 42 kilometers from the scholars’ house.

The students do their own cooking and washing and are watched over by a house mother. There are about forty students almost equally divided between boys and girls.

We caught them at the end of the school year as exams are going on and next week their summer break begins. There vacation will last until June.

The ride to the scholars’ house took about thirty minutes and took us up into the hills. We passed the airport from which tomorrow four of us will fly back to Manila.

We departed next for a return trip to the home for abused girls. Apparently the message did not get out that we had stopped the day before.

Actually, it was good that we came back as this time around all the girls were home as well as the staff. So instead of looking at a building we got a chance to learn a few things about the daily routine for the girls. As with the students at the scholars’ house the school year is fast coming to an end.

The gardan at the Kasanag Daughters Foundation

The girls provided us with a snack consisting in grilled bananas on a stick and a rice and sweet potato desert — at least I think there was rice in it. I am not a fan of the sweet potato and claim to do my duty once a year by eating some on Thanksgiving Day. I must confess  that this desert was very tasty, perhaps because it did not really taste like sweet potatos I enjoyed it.

We ended our visit with the girls by listening to them sing about three or four songs. They are preparing for a celebration this Sunday in honor of St. Joseph. [Monday the 19th is St. Joseph’s feast day but since they have school they are celebrating on the 18th instead.]

When we got back to the house around 18:00 hours most of the SCJs visitors and staff were out in front of the house. Claudio and I were asked if we were not too tired to go out for dinner.

We both were up to the challenge and so the group of about twenty SCJs traveled in three vans to a seaside restaurant and enjoyed a great meal. A fine way to end our visit to Mindanao as come morning many of us would head our separate ways.

March 16, 2012 — Traveling Day

At the restaurant last evening Frank Pupkowski asked me to be the celebrant at this morning’s Mass. I agreed and looked forward to it.

I would be remiss if I didn’t say something about the daily schedule here. What is done here would be similar to other houses in the region, and even to some degree in the parishes.

The day starts early, mainly because this is the coolest part of the day. It is actually quite pleasant from dawn to about 08:00 when the heat of the day begins to set in. Because of that normal rising time is 05:00 with morning prayer and Mass beginning at 05:30 followed by breakfast.

Since this is celebration time and exam time at the colleges everything was pushed up half an hour, i.e., rising at 05:30 and morning prayer and Mass at 06:00.

As for the rest of the day for the students it would be classwork and housework and homework that would occupy much of their time. Dinner is at 12:00 and adoration at 18:00 followed by supper. Part of the day is set aside for sport and recreation as well.

At the end of Mass I thanked the students and the Filipino SCJ community for their hospitality and well organized celebration. We then proceeded to breakfast as we did not have much time to spare what with departure time at 07:30.

The airport is only 10 kilometers from the house and on a road that does not have a morning rush hour to contend with. There were four of us headed for Manila on a Cebu Pacific slated for a 09:05 take off.

We left on time and landed about fifteen minutes early. Br. Patrick was there to meet us (“Brother” in this care is the title used for scholastics).

I think we were on the road by 10:30 giving us an hour-and- a-half to get home in time for lunch.

It was a good thing that we had that much time to get home. Right outside the airport there is a traffic circle and just beyond that we came to a standstill! I don’t think we ever found out what was going on but suspect it was a traffic accident up head. The first chance we had (it took about half an hour) Patrick made a u-turn and found an alternate route home. We managed to make it just in time for the noon meal.

Not too many of the students were home. I know graduation took place while I was down in Mindanao, but school (or exams) have not yet finished.

After our meal I took a brief rest and then my hour-long walk around the area. Our formation house is located in an older gated community. It is an easy area to walk around in as there is little to no traffic.

This being a Friday in Lent the community had Stations of the Cross in the late afternoon just before supper. One Lenten difference I did notice between here and back home was the fact that we had chicken at both meals. (Remember fish is a very common dish appearing at almost all meals.

After supper I met with Thomas Vinod, scj, the district superior of India. I wanted to talk with him about my visit last year and several issues of common interest.

March 17, 2012 — Heading Home

An early start to the day as I wanted to be at the airport at 07:00 when All Nippon Airlines would open its ticket counters. That meant we would leave the house around 05:45. Traffic at this hour is not too bad, especially on weekends. What also helps is the fact that trucks are banned from the city after 06:00. That does not mean all trucks, but it does reduce traffic congestion to a certain degree.

Students from Higaonon (Scholars) Project

Fr. Vincent was kind enough to make breakfast (he did have help from one of the students who was charged with making the day’s breakfast for the community). We headed out on time and got to the airport around 06:30.

There is an additional screening process at the airport we don’t have back in the States. Before you can pass into the airport your luggage is screened. It will be screened again (or at least your carry-on luggage) when you pass through to the gates.

My plane was slated to depart at 09:50. That gave me plenty of time to walk around and do some window shopping.

We boarded our plane on time and took off for Narita in our 767-300 for the four-hour flight to Japan. I hoped the rest of the day would go as well as it began.

It’s now 21:00 (same day) and I’m at the Holiday Inn Express near O’Hare Airport. My wish came true and the flight from Narita to Newark, though bumpy at times, turned out to be pleasant enough. I did not watch as many movies on this leg of my journey as I did coming to the Philippines.

The one fly in the ointment happened as the passengers filed into the customs hall in Newark. Passport control was crowded with passengers from a number of planes and the line seemed to go on forever.

The system US customs uses is efficient but when you get so many people at once it takes time. I thought I had plenty of time to catch my flight. We landed at 16:15 and I would depart for Chicago at 18:00. Well, when all was said and done, I managed to get to my gate at 17:50, just ten minutes to spare.

Happily the Chicago flight also left on time and got to Chicago ahead of schedule. The Holiday Inn Express van showed up on schedule (it comes to the bus terminal twice an hour).

After a long day of travel I hit the sack as quickly as I could and did not set my alarm. I would head home when my body said it was ready!  Amen!